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Crate Training Your
Dog
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Crate training your dog may take some time and
effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or
puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns
all the house rules – like what he can and can’t chew on and where he can and
can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car,
as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely.
If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he’ll think of it as his safe
place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.
Selecting A Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called "flight
kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be
purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be just large
enough for him to stand up and turn around in.
The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks,
depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to
keep two things in mind while crate training. The crate should always be
associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series
of small steps - don’t go too fast.
Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
Put the crate in an area of your house
where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft
blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him
in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened opened
so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate,
drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all
the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s
okay – don’t force him to enter.
Continue tossing treats into the crate
until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If
he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This
step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate
After introducing your dog to the crate,
begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant
association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you
begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your
dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he
will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him,
place the dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in
the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first,
open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding,
leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for
ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next
time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine
or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops.
Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so
he’ll keep doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer
Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular
meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there
for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give
him a treat. Give him a command to enter such as, "kennel up." Encourage him by
pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and
close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go
into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time,
then let him out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day. With
each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the
crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay
quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of
the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time
periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or
several weeks.
Step 4: Part A/Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog is spending about 30
minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving
him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate
using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a
few safe toys in the crate (see our handout: "Dog Toys and How to Use Them").
You’ll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you
put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time
before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to
leaving. Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but
matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate
and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited
behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low
key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re
home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left
alone.
Part B/Crating Your Dog At Night:
Put your dog in the crate using your
regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate
in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies
often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be
able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too,
should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with
social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with
his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you
prefer.
Potential Problems Too Much Time In The Crate
A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not
used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog
is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s
spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made
to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies
under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four
hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer
periods.
Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the
crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out
of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you
followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded
for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the
whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon.
Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the
whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he
associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited,
take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re
convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to
ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long
to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps
and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this
problem. If the problem becomes manageable, you may need to start the crate
training process over again.
Separation Anxiety
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy
for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog
from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from
the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with
counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a
professional animal behaviorist for help (see our handout: "Separation
Anxiety").
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