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Fearful Dog
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Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they’re
afraid. A fearful dog will display certain body postures, including lowering his
head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between
his legs. He may also pant, salivate, tremble and/or pace. A frightened dog may
try to escape, may show submissive behaviors (avoidance of eye contact,
submissive urinating, rolling over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and
remain immobile. Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the object that is causing
their fear. In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of
general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his
bladder or bowels and, therefore, house soil.
Causes Of Fearful Behavior
Determining why your dog is fearful isn’t always
essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear
will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically
predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized
during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to
treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific
experience. It’s essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for
your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your
veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.
What You Can Do
Most fears won’t go away by themselves, and if left
untreated, may get worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity
or frequency but may not disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been
ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to
identify what triggers his fear. If he is afraid of startling noises see the
page: "Helping Your Dog Overcome The Fear Of Thunder And Other
Startling Noises." If he is afraid of being left alone, see the page:
"Separation Anxiety." Most fears can be treated using desensitization and
counter conditioning techniques, which require a lot of time and patience. You
may need help from a professional animal behavior specialist to help you with
these techniques (see the page: "When Information Isn't Enough Help").
Desensitization
Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or
small amount of whatever it is that’s causing his fear. For example, if he is
afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from
your dog. Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in the presence of the
bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him. As long as your dog remains
relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious,
move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace. When your dog can
remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100
feet away again, but
have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually
increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for
remaining calm and relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary,
gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle. This process may take
several days, weeks or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that
your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization
process.
Counter Conditioning
Counter conditioning works best when used along with
desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus with an activity or
behavior incompatible with the fear behavior. Using the desensitization
technique example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the
bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience exercises, such as "sit" and "down."
Reward him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is
moved closer to him.
If your dog doesn’t know any commands, teach him a
few using treats and praise. Don’t ever use punishment, collar corrections or
scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning is for
him to associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens
him.
Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be
difficult to reproduce and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of
thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm,
such as smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in the light. During
the desensitization process it’s impossible for you to reproduce all of these
factors. If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if
an adult man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him,
this can disrupt the gradual process of
desensitization.
When To Get Help
Because desensitization and counter conditioning
can be difficult to do, and because behavior problems may increase if these
techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help
from an animal behavior specialist (see the page: When Information Isn't
Enough Help"). It’s important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels
trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will respond
aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them (see the page:
"Understanding aggression In Dogs"). If your dog displays any
aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping or baring his teeth,
stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an
animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.
Consult With Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available that can help your dog
feel less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person
who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Don’t
attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without
consulting with your veterinarian. Animals don’t respond to drugs the same way
people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your
dog. Drug therapy alone won’t reduce fears and phobias permanently. In extreme
cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best
approach.
What Not To Do
Don’t punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment
will only make him more fearful. Don’t try to force your dog to experience the
object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is
afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by,
he’ll probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.
Never punish your dog after the fact for
destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don’t understand
punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. This kind of
destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment
will do more harm than good.
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