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HARK, HARK, THE
DOG DOTH BARK:
Silencing the Dog
That Barks When Left Alone
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Of all dog behavior
problems, perhaps the most distressing one is the dog who barks when left alone.
Incessant volleys of yips, woofs and whines are an irritant to those who live in
close quarters or for those who need some peace and quiet in their life! These
latchkey barkers fit several profiles. It is important to determine which one or
more describes your dog; misreading the dog may result in a failure to
extinguish the problem.
The Genetically Prone
Bark
Virtually all terriers and
many small dogs, particularly Maltese, Poodles and miniature Schnauzers, fit
into this category. These breed types have been pre-programmed to bark at
movement or noise within their range. Sensitive alarm barkers once bred to alert
the farmer of the fox in the hen house now announce that the phone is ringing,
the neighbors are home or that the elevator has arrived. They must be trained to
limit their barking. Training them to bark on command gives you control; you can
turn it "on" or "off" on your orders! It's not that you don't want them to bark;
you just want them to be appropriate. Find a suitable place or time where the
yappy dog can bark to his heart's content.
1. The
Alpha/Territorial
These barkers are most
often unneutered males and/or guarding breed types. They believe that they are
protecting their yard, house and general "air-space" from intruders such as the
mailman, a squirrel, a passing dog or a neighbor. Neutering may take the
overprotective and/or territorial edge off the intact dog.
Training will get the
genetically protective dogs' instincts in line. Blocking the dog's view of the
property lines (stockade instead of chain-link fencing) and keeping him from
patrolling the area around the front door or front porch may assist in cutting
down the owner-absent barking. Monitor this type of dog carefully; do not permit
him to bark at passersby when you are home. If you cannot silence him when you
are there, you can't expect much when you're not.
2. The Demanding Barker
This confident soul does
not want to be left alone because the fun stops. He stands at the door and
commands you to return to play with him. Both barking set-ups (explained below)
and engaging toys work well to quiet this imp's demands, as does the citronella
anti-bark collar.
3. The Bored Underexercised
Sporting, hound and herding
breed types were bred to work all day long. Many retrievers, pointers, setters,
collies and the like now find themselves sadly under-exercised, especially in
the urban environment. These dogs need to be kept busy. If not, boredom turns
into barking (not to mention chewing, pacing and digging). Most need at least
two hours of vigorous, aerobic exercise a day. If you are going to be gone for
an extended period of time (over six hours,) an hour of mentally challenging and
physically active fun and games is mandatory. You should leave behind a panting,
heaving, utterly exhausted dog as you set off for the day. Offering them
breakfast from a stuffed KongTM or food-dispensing toy can also keep them busy.
4. The Fearful, Anxious
Dog
Some of these dogs fall
into the category of toy and miniature breed types. Dogs that have been passed
around from home to home and shelter rescues also fit into this group. Their
histories may include coddling and over-protective handling, lack of proper
socialization or isolation. Dogs that have never been out of the back yard or
permanently paper trained apartment dwellers are candidates for anxiety
behaviors if placed in a new home environment. These dogs suffer from separation
anxiety when left behind, even for brief periods. Chewing, barking, house
soiling and digging at doors or window sills are some typical responses. The
majority of these dogs need to be properly socialized to the world around them.
Obedience work with plenty of praise builds confidence, yielding a more stable
dog; a dog with a better ability to cope.
5. Environmental
Changes to Minimize Owner Absent
The anxious dog may feel
less stressed-out when home alone if he's confined to a kennel crate either
the enclosed airline type (molded plastic) or a wire crate draped with a sheet
or a tablecloth. With less space to worry about just the bed and a chew toy
many dogs just curl up and calm down. A word of warning regarding dogs with
severe anxiety problems (often a rescue/shelter dog): some dogs may go to pieces
in a crate; they will shake, slobber, struggle and exhibit extreme escape
behavior. In these instances you must seek the counsel of a professional dog
trainer or applied animal behaviorist who is well versed in canine behavior
problems and can customize a program for the dog that may include short-term
drug therapy.
6. Barking Set-Ups
1. Keep the dog in the
quietest part of the house. A dog with behavior problems has not earned "the run
of the house".
2. Keep curtains and/or
shades drawn. If you don't have adequate window coverage, get some; hang a sheet
or blanket across the window. A darker environment has a calming effect on most
dogs. Additionally, there is no visual stimuli to provoke the territorial or
bored dog. Curtains muffle sounds from the outdoors for alarm barkers.
3. Leave a radio or TV on
as white noise. In many households, the stereo/TV/radio is on from morning
'til night as long as someone is home. Imagine how "loud" the silence is when
everyone is gone and the sound system is turned off! Beyond masking outside
noises, leaving the stereo/TV/radio on gives the aural appearance of your
presence.
4. As you leave, give the
dog an "only-when-I'm-gone" chew toy with your scent imparted on it. This toy
should be something spectacular - a sterilized beef bone stuffed deeply and
thoroughly with canned dog food or cheese spread (served frozen or chilled), a
flavorful beef-basted knotted rawhide bone, or a stuffed KongTM. Give it to the
dog upon leaving; rub it between your palms several times before you go. Not
only is this a diversion tactic, it actually makes being left alone not so bad,
as this is the only time the "most-wonderful-thing-in-the-world" appears!
If you have tried all of
the above and you are still finding notes from your neighbors, you must
desensitize the dog to your departures with "barking set-ups." Set-ups take
time; slow incremental progress is a necessary part of the program. Be prepared
to use a long week-end or some vacation time for the program.
First, imitate your daily
departure routine. Do you usually put on make-up, search about for keys, gloves,
etc. pack a gym bag or throw out the garbage? Make the dog think that this is
just like any other daily departure.
Second, while giving him
his special goodbye toy, get eye contact and tell him in a firm and
matter-of-fact manner to be quiet until you return. Please, no longwinded
emotional scenes; no begging, pleading or whining for him to be quiet. It will
only serve to emotionally charge the situation and further stress-out the dog.
Leave for a brief period
of time. Just a minute or two to start out with. If you wait for an elevator,
ring for it and get in. Go one floor down and come back up using the stairs.
Wait 1-2 minutes. If the dog has not barked, return and gently praise. If you
hear him begin to bark, mark the behavior by a sharp rap on the door with a
solid object like a brass key ring and start timing again. Each time the dog
barks, rap on the door and set the timer back to zero. It may take a half hour
to get 1-2 minutes of silence. When you do, go in and praise. Leave 15-30
minutes later and repeat.
The goal, of course, is to
be able to stay away for longer and longer periods of time without having to
correct the dog for barking. The time away must be built up in small intervals.
Set goals ( 5, 10, 15 minutes) and go back in and praise the dog if he remained
quiet for the set amount of time. Don't wait for an undetermined amount of time
and correct the dog for finally barking. Silence must be praised. Appropriate
behavior must be acknowledged.
Most dogs who can remain
silent for two hours can usually stay quiet for an 8 to 10 hour work day. It is
building up to that first hour or so that may take several days of set-ups to
achieve. Barking problems are rarely solved in a day.
Barking set-ups can be
tedious, but they usually work if you take the time to do them properly. Let
your neighbors know that you are not ignoring their complaints; that you
understand their discomfort and you are taking steps to correct the problem.
Quite often, they will cut you a little slack if they know that their complaints
have not fallen upon deaf ears.
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Lewis Clark Animal Shelter
